DIY mechanical watches on a budget

I recently embarked on a watch-building journey, inspired by a YouTube video from Elliot Coll, where he demonstrated how to build custom watches using affordable parts. With the rise of accessible components from platforms like AliExpress, it’s now easier than ever to create unique, high-quality timepieces without breaking the bank. In this post, I’ll show off three watches I built using budget-friendly parts: a classic dress watch, a rugged titanium pilot, and a sleek chronograph. If you’ve ever considered building your own watch, this guide will walk you through the essentials, starting with movements like the NH35, NH72, and VK63. Each of these can be built for around €100 in parts, making it an affordable way to create custom timepieces.

Tools needed

Before diving into the build process, it’s essential to have the right tools on hand to ensure a smooth assembly. While complete watchmaking kits are available, they often include tools you might never use. Here’s a curated list of what you’ll need:

Hand Setting Tools: Essential for carefully placing and securing the watch hands onto the movement without causing damage.
Movement Holder: Keeps the movement stable during assembly, allowing for accurate hand setting and adjustments.
- A metal holder works best when working on the movement, dial, and hands, but a soft pad can be helpful once everything goes into the case.
Rodico: A cleaning compound used to remove dust, fingerprints, and debris from the movement and dial. Super practical to hold and position hands as well!
Tweezers: Fine-tipped tweezers are crucial for handling small components like screws and hands. Opt for plastic-tipped tweezers to avoid scratches.
Case Back Opener: Secures the case back after assembly.
- For some cases, a small inflatable ball is all you need, while others require a specific tool to open and close.
Spring Bar Tool: For easily attaching and removing the strap or bracelet.
Loctite: The blue type to make sure the crown stays properly attached to the stem.
Gasket Grease: Should be applied to the case back gasket (rubber ring) to enhance water resistance.
Loupe or Magnifying Glass (Optional): Handy for close-up inspection and ensuring proper alignment of components.

All of these tools are easily sourced from AliX and should cost around €30-40.

First Build: An Explorer-style watch

For my first custom watch, I wanted a worthy replacement for my old digital-analog G-Shock, which had a striking deep blue dial but an overly bulky case. After the G-Shock was damaged beyond repair, I saw the chance to design something that maintained the same rich color scheme in a more refined package. Drawing inspiration from the Rolex Explorer and Seiko Prospex Alpinist, I chose the NH35 movement for its reliability and ease of use—a perfect choice for a first build. The result is a slim, elegant watch that channels the essence of my old G-Shock with a timeless, sophisticated look.

Parts List

NH35A Movement: Equipped with a sleek black date wheel, to blend in with the dark dial.
Blue “Seiko” Dial: A deep, rich blue to capture the look of my old G-Shock.
36mm Stainless Steel Case: Features an exhibition back, paired with an oyster bracelet for a classic finish.
Simple Set of Hands: Clean and minimal, allowing the blue dial to take center stage.

After watching countless YouTube videos on watch-building and finally gathering all the parts, I was ready to dive into my own project. The first thing I realized, no video can truly prepare you for how small and delicate these parts are. A well-lit workspace is essential, and if you struggle with visibility, consider using a magnifier or loupe to help. Overall, the build went smoothly—until it came to setting the second hand, which took me several hours. What ultimately helped was studying the NH35’s technical drawing, which shows exactly where each hand connects. Once I understood the proper attachment point, aligning the second hand became much easier.

Building a watch is incredibly satisfying but can also be a bit stressful due to the tiny, delicate parts involved. In the end, though, I’m thrilled with how it turned out! The only thing I’d change is the logo on the dial—it’s not a Seiko, so it ideally shouldn’t have that branding. However, it was the best option available in the exact shade of blue I wanted. Just to be clear, I have no intention of passing this off as a genuine Seiko; I don’t support counterfeiting or any form of misrepresentation.

A Titanium Skeletal Pilot Watch

While my first watch features an exhibition case back to showcase the movement, I wanted to take it a step further with this build by highlighting the NH72 skeletal movement through the dial itself. Additionally, I was looking for a material that was less shiny than my first build, and titanium was the perfect choice for a warmer, metallic look.

Parts List

Here are the key components chosen for this titanium pilot watch:

NH72 Movement: A skeletonized movement, with some of the intricate details of the mechanical movement visible.
Open Dial for NH72: Designed specifically for the NH72, this dial exposes the movement.
Simple Hands with Red Second Hand: Clean, minimal hands with a touch of color from the red second hand.
36mm Titanium Pilot Case: A lightweight yet durable case with a sleek, matte finish for a subtle look.
Plastic Movement Ring: Required when using a NH72 movement with a dial.
Leather Strap: To create some contrast with the metal.

This build presented more challenges than I expected! I mistakenly ordered the wrong size hands, but luckily I had an extra set from the first build to use. I decided to cut the new set’s second hand to size because I liked its blue color. However, the cut was very noticeable when the light hit it at certain angles, and the blue second hand didn’t provide enough contrast against the rest of the watch. So, I ended up ordering a red second hand, opened the watch, and replaced it. While I did improve my second hand setting technique, it still took me quite a bit of time. Despite these setbacks, the build turned out great. The only change I might make now is swapping the strap for one with a rougher texture and a slightly wider clasp.

A Golden Chronograph

For the third watch, this one wasn’t for me, but rather for my brother, who asked if I could build him a chronograph similar to the Rolex Daytona. He wanted a golden case, black dial, and red highlights—as he offered to cover the cost of the parts, of course! This was the perfect opportunity to try out the VK63 movement, a meca-quartz movement, which differs from my previous builds that used automatic mechanical movements. The advantage of the quartz movement is its superior accuracy, but the VK63 still incorporates mechanical elements, giving the chronograph a sweeping motion and a fly-back function.

Parts list

Here are the key components used for this chronograph build:

VK63 Movement: A meca-quartz movement that combines the precision of quartz with mechanical elements, including a sweeping second hand and fly-back function for the chronograph.
Black and Gold Dial for VK63: A sleek dial that perfectly complements the golden case, featuring bold black and gold accents.
Two Sets of Hands for VK63: One set with black and gold hour and minute hands, and another with a red chrono hand and small hands for the sub-dials.
Gold Daytona-Style Case with Bracelet: A gold case inspired by the Rolex Daytona, paired with a matching bracelet for a complete look.

I’ve mentioned before that I’m not the best at setting second hands, so this build proved particularly challenging—I had to install four hands on their respective pinions, all while keeping them in alignment! If you manage to complete a VK63 build, you’ll definitely become a pro at setting hands on a pinion. The chronograph hand, in particular, was a whole new challenge compared to the NH movements. When you reset the chrono, the chronograph hand jumps back to its 12 o’clock position, and the force required to do so is significant. This means the hand needs to be pressed in very firmly. Initially, I applied the same pressure I used for the previous two builds, but when I presented the watch to my brother, he started playing with the chrono … and … the chronograph hand flew off the pinion—quite embarrassing! The key here is to apply much more pressure than I was initially comfortable with to ensure the hand stays in place. Aside from that, everything else went smoothly. Despite being my first chronograph build, the VK63 wasn’t nearly as daunting as I’d read. The main takeaway is to take your time and make sure the chronograph hand is properly set and securely in place.

Next Steps

Once you complete a basic build, there are plenty of ways to further customize your watch:

Swap the Crystal or Add a Chapter Ring: Upgrading the crystal or adding a chapter ring can enhance the watch’s appearance. (Note: This will require a crystal press.)
Change the Bezel: Larger cases often have interchangeable bezels, allowing you to personalize the style even more.
Customize the Rotor: Swap out the rotor for a different design, or simply add a decal to give it a unique look.
Add Custom Logos to the Dial: Personalize the dial with your own logo to make the watch truly one-of-a-kind.

For me personally, I’d like to do a build with a light dial and a GMT hand, probably in an Explorer II style case but with a jubilee bracelet.

Conclusion

Building these three watches has been an incredibly rewarding journey, offering a mix of challenges and satisfaction that only watchmaking can provide. Each build taught me something new, from overcoming the struggles with hand setting to mastering the precision needed for the chronograph function. While there were some setbacks along the way, like dealing with the fragile components and ensuring everything was perfectly aligned, the end results made it all worth it.

If you’re considering embarking on your own watch-building adventure, don’t be intimidated by the complexity—just take your time, be patient, and make sure you have the right tools and parts. If you like watches, don’t hesitate—your perfect custom watch might be just a few (carefully chosen) parts away!